L'Autre Version, Montreal

Let's clear one thing up; as the name suggests, L'Autre Version is an entirely new restaurant. But new co-owners Benoit Marcotte and Stephanie Gemme have been careful to continue the old restaurant's legacy, albeit with a few personal touches. Located on the ground floor of the 19th century Hotel Rasco, the space definitely has that Old Montreal "feel", complete with beige and grey Victorian brick walls, white tablecloths, and stately light fixtures. It's a little less modern than its predecessor, but L'Autre Version has emphasized the space's best feature: its large, beautiful, semi-private terrace. Once summer hits, it's sure to teem with Old Montreal atmosphere, greenery, and comfort.

Chef Remi Morency (formerly of Verses Sky at Hotel Nelligan) continues the former focus on French-Mediterranean fare, but this is the kind of cooking that relies on the guiding hand of its chef. Dishes like Smoked Salmon Terrine may be somewhat standard of the style, but touches like pistachio crust, fried capers, and croutons tout Morency's idiosyncrasies. If that excites you, you'd be best to sample the Inspiration of the Moment or L'Autre Version surprise, which really could be anything.

The cooking tends to go the way of the market, so your best bet is to order whatever is in season. Dishes are built around fresh produce, and especially meat. Think Deer Burgers with Île-aux-Grues cheddar, Buffalo Steak, Braised Wild Boar Ribs with BBQ Blueberry Sauce, and an "everything" dish of Seared Foie Gras, Cipollini Onion Hot Pot, Smoked Duck Filet Lardons, and Roasted Bread with Truffle Oil. Amazingly, despite the marked upmarket recipes and ingredients, nothing exceeds $22. That's a Version we can get behind.