André, NYC

Since the recession became a reality about six months ago, myriad restaurants have closed their doors due to the faltering economy and many have opened in spite of it marketing themselves as "recession friendly." The latest kid to plant himself on the cut-rate culinary block is André -- an ostensibly times-appropriate bistro brought to you by longtime restaurateurs Frederick Lesort and Antoine Blech ( Frederick's, Jour et Nuit, Orienta, and the Lemon).

Although André claims to have neighborhood casualness to it, the décor – rife with classic features like oak flooring, wainscoted walls, and white table linens, and accented with contemporary accoutrements, like orbed light fixtures and nouveau art deco chairs – seems to oppose the claim. Speaking of contradictions, the menu, designed by head Chef Ted Pryor, is meant to have the same kind of folksy quality to it as the space itself. I will say this: the space and menu might be correlatives, but neither conveys the kind of approachability this New York Restaurant pretends to embody.

The card, infused with touches of France and America, is indeed lovely, featuring small plates like peekey toe crab salad with pea puree, zucchini blossom’s and mango vinaigrette; jambon de bayonne and melon trio with poppy seed vinaigrette; and tender lobster with summer squash, baby basil and lobster bisque. Main courses feature several seafood options, including a warm poached lobster salad with baby golden beets and osetra caviar (casual? I think not); herb-encrusted rack of lamb with haricot vert and pomme sarladaise; and poached copper river salmon with marinated local tomato, snap peas and sauce vierge. The prices, ranging from $8 - $34, are not exorbitant, but I certainly would feel misled if I walked into the spot with the impression that Andre's is a dine-on-the-cheap kind of place.