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Seed or sod?

Are you considering installing a new lawn, or renovating a worn one? Then one choice you are faced with is whether to use seed or sod. With either, your lawn will establish more easily with proper prior soil preparation.

Begin with a soil test to determine what nutrition you may need, and if the soil pH or acidity needs adjusting. Soil test kits are available from local Extension offices and many complete garden stores.

Rototill the soil well to four to six inches, raking off any rocks and other debris. This will incorporate any fertilizer you may have applied, and usually kill off most annual weeds. Try to do this before annual weeds go to seed. Perennial weeds have roots that remain in the soil. Tilling the soil only breaks roots into many pieces which result in more plants. The quick way to control such weeds is with a post-emergent herbicide (which kills weeds that have already emerged). If using a herbicide, make sure to read and follow label directions. Organic ways to control perennial weeds are to cover the area with black plastic for a season prior, or use cover crops for a year or two prior to beginning your lawn.

If you plan to start your lawn from seed, keep in mind that the best time to plant grass seed is late April through May and late August to early September. Spring and fall provide favorable growing conditions for cool season lawn grasses.

Grass seed can be spread over the ground with a fertilizer spreader. Use about four pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet of area, unless other amounts are recommended on the bag or by your dealer. Apply half the amount in one direction, the other half at right angles to ensure uniform coverage.

Drag a lawn rake over the seeded area to mix the seed into the soil surface. Use a roller (these can be rented) to firm the seeds into the soil and improve germination. Watering is critical for new seedings. Sprinkle the ground lightly several times a day to keep the soil surface cool and moist. As the grass begins to grow, water less often but more each time.

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© 2006 University of Vermont Extension

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