With about 20-30 seats and a basic homespun décor -- the ideology here is evident: less is more.

The cafeteria in my high school had amazing onion rings and a killer breakfast. Unfortunately, you could only score the rings at lunchtime and the eggs before second period. This Cafeteria says, ‘to hell with temporal restrictions.’ With no reservation required and no formal menu to speak of, the new Cafeteria is fitting to the name. Expect a classic and simple interior and constantly changing food program, as chefs Andrey Durbach and Chris Stewart ( L’Altro Buca ) have simplified their vision of a cafeteria.

With about 20-30 seats and a basic homespun décor – the ideology here is evidently in your face: less is more. The menu is eschewed for a daily menu-board dangling on an exposed brick wall, but Cafeteria is no John-Deer-hat atmospheric canteen. With the addition of light wood chairs, silver tabletops and wooden blinds, and the room has upped its game. Above the bar, the “99 bottles of beer on the wall” road-trip song comes to life. It’s chic without being over the top.

While the food roster changes daily, some of the featured entrées – the best of which being the sockeye salmon, beef tenderloin, duck confit, and pappardelle with braised beef and mushrooms – make regular appearances. Opening plates – also changing – include the tomato salad, smoked salmon with potato crisps and arugula. Desserts include various crumbles, puddings, and changing Greek yogurt with flavours like the mousse grapefruit to make you hate your lack of willpower. A solid little wine and Champagne card and beer are of course readily available to have with the cheese course. With a promise of seasonal, local and imported ingredients, set the expectations high.

The fare is top-notch, and filling; the atmosphere is relaxed. Together, Cafeteria is a tidy little package. Service is a bit aloof, but reliable. Like all other elitist jerks out there, look for me savouring my tender duck confit while reading a pretentious theorist. I’ve got street cred to maintain.

2702 Main St, Vancouver, BC
778.317.3783
Daily 5pm-Close
Cuisine – Eclectic
Area – East Broadway
Price – $$$ (Within Reach


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